I am deep within the annual existential crisis otherwise know as The January Spring Clean. Literally so: Iā€™m up to my knees in books, flung from their roosts on the book shelves in a desperate attempt to Get Rid Of This Infernal Clutter. I lift one at random and blow a film of dust from its decorative cover: Arabesque by Claudia Roden, one of my favourite cookbooks ā€¦