|Kitchen Essays by Agnes Jekyll|
|Soho Landmarks - Maison Bertaux|
|Zabar's - A New York Institution|
Ace Cafe on London's North Circular Road has been serving bikers since 1938. Hattie Garlick visited recently and learnt how, after being destroyed in an air-raid in 1940, it became the world famous haunt it is today getting through an astonishing 7 tons of sausages a year.
But how does a vegan survive in this world of leathers and bacon sandwiches? Hattie tracked down Vegan Biker Boy for some answers.
|Fuchsia Dunlop - the full interview|
At a relatively early age Fuchsia Dunlop became hooked on China. She decided to learn Mandarin at evening classes and eventually won a scholarship to study in Chengdu, Sichuan. It was there that she trained as a chef, the first westerner to attend the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine. As a result she is now one of the foremost experts on Chinese cuisine and has built up a large and devoted following across the world.
At Barshu in the heart of London's Soho, a Sichuanese restaurant where Fuchsia acts as consultant, she talks to Mark Hilton, who also decided at a young age to study Chinese and Chinese culture and has lived in Xiamen in South-East China for 12 years. Discussion ranges from her life in Chengdu to the effect of the country's rapid changes on its cuisine and the, often false, assumptions the west makes about Chinese food.
More on Fuchsia...you can see her in conversation with Prue Leith here.
|Jonathan Meades and Matthew Fort|
The collective knowledge and wit of Matthew Fort and Jonathan Meades make this conversation one to savour! The iconoclastic Jonathan Meades is often considered to have been the best of all food critics during his tenure at the Times, and is still regarded by many as supreme. Meades airs his trenchant and outspoken views about today's chefs and the food scene generally. He cites RADA, "the Sandhurst for chorus boys", where he trained as an actor, as the place which instilled in him a lifelong discipline and, one suspects, his disdain for the pretentious.
Is wine made for tasting or drinking?
Would you want to drink more than a glass?
This was a discussion I had with Tim Johnston at the infamous Juveniles Wine Bar in Paris, which has an excellent wine list that is based on the premise that you would like to order another glass!
He is obviously of the opinion that an extra glass is good for business and buys wine accordingly, yet still interestingly!
Richard Craig on Californian Chardonnay...
|The Table Comes First|
Adam Gopnik, author and writer for The New Yorker magazine, came to London in late November for the UK launch of his new book. He credits Fergus Henderson for unwittingly giving him the title, The Table Comes First, and the two of them met up at St. John Hotel where the conversation ran from subjects as diverse as farting cows and the worrying proliferation of square plates in France...